Cleaned out the abrasive path got it running fine but now no water through the nozzle?
Pump seems to be running the same and yet not a drip of water?
Tried flushing the nozzle and no water either?
It could be a clog in the water line or the HP Valve is disabled! Before continuing, please make sure your water supply is turned on.
In order to verify the HP Valve function, there are some safety devices that need to be aligned before.
Please re-adjust the left (and possibly right) side magnets in the door trim. The left side magnet is responsible for enabling/disabling the HP Valve - it is simply a hardware stop. No error will be displayed on the screen if the left magnet is not working.
The right side magnet is responsible for displaying an error - it is simply a software stop. During this time, an error will be displayed on the screen to make sure the door/lid is closed to continue forward.
Please review the information found here to find the location of the magnets and test them appropriately. (Door Switch Magnet Adjustment — WAZER Support | The First Desktop Waterjet.)
It is important to check the controller on the right side during the “HP Valve” Output Check. Find the left side magnet and adjust if needed (it should sit 2-3mm inside the trim). Afterwards, perform the Output Check and make sure the HP Valve LED on the controller lights up during this test.
If the HP Valve is working, there is likely a clog in the water line and we can take the next steps to identify where.
I checked the magnet location and they seem to be located in a good spot. I played with the right side magnet until I got the close door alarm.
Hp valve snaps open?
I noticed that the door doesn’t fit centered on the frame with a large gap on the left side and rubbing the right side of the frame.
We checked that the water is on.
Does the HP Valve LED light up during the output check? This is the key to determining if the valve is working.
- If no LED, adjust the left side magnet.
- If the LED is lit up and there is still no water coming from the cutting head, there is a clog in the line.
If you find #2 matches your situation, the next step is to isolate or locate the clog. More than likely the clog is from the cutting head. To confirm or deny this, remove the banjo bolt from the top of the cutting head.
- Perform a “HP Valve” output check and make sure the LED is on. This is also done to make sure any pressure in the water line is released and is important.
- Using a 17mm wrench and adjustable pliers, remove the top banjo bolt from the cutting head.
- Be careful and remove the 2 sealing washers on either side of the water line/banjo bolt.
- With the water line disconnected from the cutting head and dangling inside the tank, run an HP Valve output check - does water exit the water line?
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I’m getting to be pretty good a t this.
I took off the nozzle and since it had cut only 2 parts I figured it was still like new?
I had some .012 dia music wire, actually guitar string and cleaned out the abrasive in the nozzle put it all back together and got the HP valve to push water through…
I put everything back to square one and ran a part and it backed up again into the sand box? dripping into the cup I have there to catch sand/water.
cleaned everything out and now letting the sand delivery hose dry out overnight and will give it a go tomorrow. If there is a trick to setting up the nozzle to fight the backflow please let me know… I’m thinking I’ll move the nozzle up about 1 mm above the gage height and see if the wazer will cut 1/8 aluminum.
I have a thread started in the community pages And yes I’ve done these things.
got the nozzle unplugged and water to flow through the HP valve. put everything back together and ran a part where the nozzle plugged again and sent water through the sand delivery tube dripping under the sand box. I’ve unplugged everything and am letting the abrasive delivery tube and rubber sleeve dry over night before trying again.
Do you have any tricks to reduce the blow back issues?
thanks
Scot Rabe
Ventura College
Drafting and Industrial Design
4667 Telegraph Rd.
Ventura CA. 93003
805-289-6494
Srabe@vcccd.edu
WWW.VenturaCollege.com
“Design a Better World”
If the clog was within the cutting head, it is important to check the condition of the cutting head to make sure the clog did not damage the jewel orifice.
To make sure the cutting head is in good condition, please check the following 3 factors:
- Water Supply Gauge - What is your water supply pressure when idle? When running a “Nozzle Purge”? This gauge is found on the filter canister installed along the water supply line.
- High Pressure Gauge - What is the output pressure at during a “Nozzle Purge” test? This gauge is found on the left side of the pump box.
- Jewel Orifice Water Stream - Please check the condition of the cutting head by visually inspecting the orifice water stream. To perform this test, follow the steps at the link here.
Finally, please also check that no water is leaking from the cutting head with your water supply turned on and the WAZER turned off or idle at the main menu. Start by removing the abrasive hose from the cutting head. Inspect the cutting head for approx. 15 seconds - are there any water drops/leaks coming from the nozzle tip or the abrasive hole in the cutting head?
I’ve got a question about this magnet. If this is a known issue with the magnets moving, why make the magnets free-floating? Would this be something we can update to where the magnets only move if we want them to, for whatever reason (I can’t think of why I would want the magnets to move). I think they should stay where they are designed to be.
Secondary question: why doesn’t the left magnet cause an error message? If it disables the high pressure system, why wouldn’t it just notify the user? I spent about an hour trying to figure out why water wasn’t coming out of the nozzle Friday. The last thing on my mind is that a small magnet has been moved.
I agree with this. If you are going to have a hardware switch and a software switch, they need to be linked so you know you have a problem. They should give you separate error messages too, maybe something like “Left door magnet not sensed” or “High pressure switch not detected”.
A work around for this is to stick the magnet onto the front sheet metal of your machine. I would not do this for the door magnet since you still want the machine to stop if you open the door, but I have my high pressure switch magnet stuck onto the front left corner of the sheet metal and you don’t need to worry about it anymore. Wazer support obviously does not like this as you can imagine, and will most likely break your warranty just like everything else you touch on this.